As Richards' Hotel, Astor House was the first western hotel in China, dating from 1846 and boasting many historic firsts, including the first telephone and the first Western-style social dance in the country. Guests have included Albert Einstein and Charlie Chaplin, but by the mid-20th century - as the Pujiang Hotel - it was a hangout for backpackers. Covering a whole city block, the 130-room hotel has been renamed and refurbished to highlight its Victorian past. Same sex couples report feeling welcomed here.