Dinner reservations are required months in advance at Chef Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais, the tiny Art Deco restaurant associated with Hotel Le Relais Saint-Germain, but you can line up for a first-come-first-served brasserie lunch. You can also stop next door at the zinc bar of L'Avant Comptoir for drinks and appetizers. If you're really set on the one-seating dinner, try booking a room at the hotel.

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