Mak Noodles is a third-generation enterprise that began as a food stall and now has branches around the city. The way the story goes, Mak's petite wontons in the noodles-and-broth was once served to Gen. Chiang Kai-shek, who was president of China in the early years. Other noodle shops offer bigger wonton, but Mak claims the teaspoon-size doesn't get soggy in the broth. A family feud created Mak An Kee, which maintains the family tradition of bite-sized wontons.