Neukölln quickly took the place of Prenzlauer Berg as the place to go to fancy oneself on the cutting edge, and it still has somewhat of a just-moved-in feel. Rapidly gentrified after the shutting of the Tempelhof airport, it has seen in the last eight years a rush of shops, cafés, and students looking to settle on unchartered lands. Full of buildings dating back to the Gründerzeit, a strange city-within-a-city development by Walter Gropius (the nephew of the one in the name of the place you've heard of), and that crazy abandoned-runway expanse make these parts a rather feverish timeline of Berlin's big century.