Now in its fourth generation of family owners, La Bola has been serving up traditional cuisine since 1870. Dishes are slow-cooked over oak charcoal in individual clay pots as in the old days. Specialties are cocido madrileño (chickpea stew), roast lamb and tribe. You can't miss the bright red cube on the corner and the lacy curtains ribboned in matching red. Credit cards aren't accepted.

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