Those on their way to Mithymna for the therapeutic springs should be sure to stop at I Eftalou, across from the small beach just before the bathhouse. Said to serve the best spinach pie on the island, it makes for a nice lunch after a morning soaking in the hot springs. The garden terrace is cool and shaded by vines, and with the water just steps away you may even be tempted for an afternoon swim. The owner's wife makes excellent homemade pastries, so don't forget dessert.